As we boarded the train for La Nariz del Diablo (the nose of the devil) I did not know what was in store. I did not know that I would chat in Spanish with a man wearing a conductor’s hat who explained he had helped build the tracks years ago. I did not know that we would make a stop and be greeted by white lamas with red blankets. I did not now that I would lean dangerously far out of the window to get a better look and inhale a view of the lifetime.